Thursday, July 19, 2018

40th SF Ethnic Dance Festival

The 40th annual San Francisco Ethnic Dance Festival opened last weekend at the SF Opera House, the second year the event has taken place in the fanciest theater in town, and it's a surprisingly perfect fit.

The huge stage of the opera house works well for the largest dance ensembles, and it was a treat seeing many in the audience enjoying the glamorous building for the first time, at affordable ticket prices, $25-$45, which you can still buy for this weekend's second set of shows (click here).

Last weekend's show featured local groups specializing in the dance traditions of North India, Spanish Flamenco, Chinese Dragon Dance, Afro-Cuban, the Philippines, Bolivia, Mexico and Tahiti.

Like any variety show, some numbers worked better than others, but the overall quality was high and in a few cases truly exceptional.

One of my favorites was the North Indian Chitresh Das Youth Company, where about three dozen women twirled and clicked their feet with dizzying precision in some bizarre fusion of traditional dance, the Rockettes and Bollywood. They were accompanied by the Toronto Tabla Ensemble who were outstanding. Most of the groups last weekend were accompanied by brilliant percussion ensembles and it was fascinating hearing the global resemblances and differences.

Other favorites were the Afro-Cuban Arenas Dance Company, with a huge contingent of glorious looking women performing Manos de Mujeres a la Obra (Women's Hands at Work), with a great percussion group of their own. The Philippine Parangal Dance Company, the Bolivian Bolivia Corazon de America, the Mexican Ensembles Ballet Folklorio de San Francisco, and the Tahitian Te Pura O Te Rahura'a all offered wildly ambitious pieces, with contemporary takes on traditional folkloric dance.

At the end of the performance, all the troupes arrive onstage in backwards succession and then flood the aisles and the lobby where they all dance together. Pictured above are members of the Nunamta Yup'ik Eskimo Singers and Dancers. In the gorgeous free program, there was this remarkable sentence about their strange, beautiful, mystical performance of The Shimmering Moon which opened the show on Saturday night. "This is a dance that has not been presented publicly for over 200 years and we are honored to have this work shared with us." It was less an artistic performance and more of a summoning of the spirits, slow and beautiful, a mixture of incantation by two soft drummers, a narrator, and four singers swaying in ritualistic dance.

Monday, July 16, 2018

Falun Gong Bastille Boat Ride

The Falun Gong religious cult is so strange.

We have a front row seat to their more theatrical public displays because they often have their movement/meditation events in Civic Center Plaza as if it was their personal front yard.

Most religious cults I have encountered in California over a lifetime have concentrated on finding young people to be unpaid slaves and hand over their money. Falun Gong instead targets older people who are looking for a physical and spiritual elixir belief system, and of course they hand over their free labor and money too.

It's an evangelical cult aggressively looking for converts, and I found my spouse Tony looking very annoyed after being hounded with literature by the lady in yellow above while I was off taking photos.

The San Francisco branch now has a marching band, complete with uniforms and instruments, which I first saw in the St. Patrick's Day Parade last March.

I asked a band member what they were doing, and he replied they were marching in a parade to Chinatown. "Down Market Street or through the Tenderloin?" I asked, and he had no idea of the actual route. It turned out to be down Market Street, confirmed two days later by a work colleague who got stuck in the accompanying traffic jam.

The day was so beautiful that I suggested, "Let's go to the Embarcadero and jump on any ferryboat that's departing soon," and it turned out to be for Oakland.

Our scheduled ferryboat didn't show up so we ended up with a large group on a small vessel, which made for enforced intimacy. The couple sitting next to me had just moved from New York to teach at the University of Chicago in anthropology and Caribbean literature, and were so smart and beautiful that I blurted out, "You two are literally the poster children for progressive values."

It was a pleasure welcoming them to California.

On our return to San Francisco, we cruised by the Bastille Day celebration at the Embarcadero in the Plaza formerly known as Justin Herman which is Still-to-be-Named-Later. The beer/wine area above was much too small so everyone was crammed between fences over a few tables.

Still, there were a few tents offering interesting French experiences, including the pop-up salon above, which made me love San Francisco all over again for attracting somebody who can calmy carry off a Marie Antoinette wig and a beard.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Beach Volleyball on the Bay

Lean and tall was the dominant impression from the AVP professional beach volleyball tournament last weekend.

The three-day event was held at Pier 32 on the Embarcadero with the Bay Bridge as background.

The admission pricing was strange, with shaded VIP sections being sold at $80-$115 a seat, while General Admission was free.

The VIP sections looked empty...

...while the two large General Admission bleachers were nearly full.

We arrived too late for the center court pro matches, but watched a quartet of teenage athletes from the Santa Cruz High School Beach League play.

The people watching was fun...

...and even the corporate team building competition looked enjoyable.

This tournament is an annual event, and you should consider checking it out next year during a walk on the waterfront.

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Two Murals on Olive Street

The Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theater strip club has long had rotating murals on the back of its building flanking Olive Street which is actually a three-block alley.

The current mural is Archon's Dream, a fabulously psychedelic offering from Max Ehrman who goes by the nom de plume EON75. At his website opening page, there is a wonderful little video showing him marching out his front door, crossing the city, and painting the wall (click here).

Across Polk Street, flanking a parking lot, is an ironic Summer of Love mural by Italian artists Jorit Agoch and Leticia Mandragora. (Click here for a great article about the piece and the artists by Jonathan Curiel at SF Weekly.)

The red paint is fading fast, but "LOVE" has been crossed out and "HOMELESS" is scrawled above. According to Curiel's interview with the artist: "The poverty I saw in San Francisco shocked me, not so much because of the material poverty, [which] I encountered in other parts of the world, but because of spiritual poverty due to the lack of sense of community and morals."

On the Fourth of July, the pair above had drunked/drugged themselves too early, and were a perfect complement to the wall art behind them.

Friday, July 06, 2018

An African Army in Civic Center Plaza

A conceptual art installation has arrived in Civic Center Plaza with the unwieldy title, Black and Blue: The Invisible Man and the Masque of Blackness. The Invisible Man refers to the Ralph Ellison novel and the Masque of Blackness to a lavish, racist pageant put on by the 17th century Queen Anne of Britain.

The artist Zac Ove is a Londoner who is originally from Trinidad, and he is the rare artist who can explain his art well, as you can see in this YouTube video and in this video which shows the same installation on a perfect English lawn.

As a child, he was taken for a visit to West Africa with his father, and they brought back a 42-inch sculpture which Zak grew up with as a token of his changing height over the years.

In this art installation, the original figure has grown to twice its size, seven feet.

And there are 80 of them, constituting a small surrealist army.

The African dudes will be hanging out until November in Civic Center Plaza, and if you're interested, the artist will be in town on July 19th from 5-9 PM for a public opening. There will probably be dull political speeches and proclamations, but you can meet the artist and welcome his strange inspiration to town.

Wednesday, July 04, 2018

Put This Baby in Jail

In towns and cities across the United States, there were public protests last Saturday decrying the sadistic behavior of immigration agents at our southern border.

The San Francisco edition marched from Dolores Park to Market Street and then down to City Hall on Polk.

The marchers were allowed on the north side of Market Street, and the continuous funnel of people lasted for over an hour.

They still managed to snarl traffic, particularly at the Octavia Street freeway onramp, where a sympathizer got out of his vehicle and honked his horn continuously to encourage the crowd.

A couple of vehicles tried to drive through the crowd, but they ended up being detained by sheriff's deputies.

There was lots of signage with Nazi analogies...

...which are unfortunately apt.

Babies and small children being ripped out of their parents' arms...

...has horrified anyone in this country with a conscience...

...and for parents of young children it is a particularly potent nightmare.

The reactions on view ranged from angry... funny... defiant.

There were a few welcome, makeshift marching bands...

...and a broader range of ethnicities than usual.

The sign above sadly encapsulates what some of us are feeling on this Fourth of July, usually my favorite holiday because it's all about summer fun, unless you live in San Francisco and are shrouded in fog.

Monday, July 02, 2018


Sunday morning, thanks to a mixture of coastal fog and ashy smoke from wildfires near Lake Berryessa, the morning light looked like the end of the world. The photo above is the San Francisco Opera House, sepia toned by nature. Sunday was also the final performance of Götterdämmerung, the last of four operas in Wagner's Der Ring des Nibelungen, and it seemed appropriate to attend a five-and-a-half hour opera that climaxes with the End of the World.

I joined 200 hardcore Wagnerites in standing room, including Charlise the Opera Tattler dressed as a Rhinemaiden above. She has now permanently won Ring Iron Woman status after attending all three cycles this month and in 2011.

I saw that entire 2011 cycle when the magnificent Nina Stemme gave one of the greatest performances in opera history during her role debut as Brunnhilde. The cast this time around was outstanding by all accounts, though nobody is ever going to replace Stemme in my memory. The production itself is aging well, visually striking and directed so you can clearly follow the characters. The real star was the entire orchestra led by former Music Director Donald Runnicles. Gosh, I miss him.